In Modern Madonnas, Chicago-based designer Dovile Riebschlager of DoviArt Fashy rethinks what feminine strength looks like today .Through bold shapes, layered textures, and meaningful details, she explores both power and softness in equal measure. Rather than presenting the Madonna as a distant religious figure, she brings her into the present, as a modern woman who feels strong, vulnerable, and deeply human.
“The idea is living almost in my subconsciousness,” Dovile explains. She traces it back to conversations with her grandmother about self-respect, beliefs, and cultural values. Because Lithuanian culture has deep matriarchal roots, those early lessons shaped how she understands womanhood. Over time, these ideas became instinctive. Instead of appearing as literal religious references, they guide her work quietly from within. For Dovile, the Madonna is not frozen in history; she becomes a living symbol of endurance and grace. As a result, the collection feels personal rather than nostalgic.
Each piece in Modern Madonnas acts as what Dovile calls “soft armor.” She speaks openly about rejecting expectations placed on women. “Women are taught to be polite, quiet, obedient and not to take too much space. I refuse!” she says. “This is my cultural rebellion.” With that refusal, her garments expand outward. Full, rounded, sculptural shapes challenge the idea that women should shrink themselves. At the same time, the pieces remain fluid and soft, proving that protection does not have to be rigid. This armor does not harden the body; instead, it protects through presence.
She describes her work as “a way of being loud without being loud.” In other words, the clothes do not rely on shock or noise to make an impact. Volume, proportion, and construction carry the message. When someone steps into these garments, fading into the background becomes difficult. Instead, the design encourages them to stand firmly and visibly in their own space.
Movement plays a central role in that philosophy. Dovile began sewing at thirteen, first out of impatience and curiosity. She wanted clothes faster than her mother could make them, so she learned to do it herself. Over time, curiosity turned into skill. Eventually, she created a stage costume for a ballerina friend, an experience that reshaped her understanding of fashion. Watching her design move under stage lights revealed how clothing could come alive. Because of that early moment, she continues to design with motion in mind. Although her silhouettes are bold and sculptural, they allow freedom. Strength, in her world, never comes at the cost of movement.
At the same time, Modern Madonnas closes a three-part story. Across the trilogy, Dovile explored trauma, growth, and acceptance. “If we honest with ourselves we all grew up with some sort of trauma,” she reflects. Rather than erase those darker parts of her life, she chose to face them directly. Through design, she found a way to release the “unexplainable heaviness” she had carried for years. Earlier collections introduced fabric scraps from previous work. Instead of discarding them, she stitched them into new garments. Now, she continues that practice. Hidden inside the pieces are fragments from the past. They may not be visible at first glance, yet they remain present, sewn quietly into the structure.
She compares this process to a childhood game in which she buried flowers and small treasures under pieces of glass and called them “secrets.” In a similar way, the scraps inside these garments hold memory. They do not disappear; instead, they transform. For Dovile, sustainability goes beyond reducing waste. It also means honoring what came before. By carrying pieces of the past into new designs, she builds continuity rather than starting from zero.
Her background in textile chemical engineering strengthens this approach. Although she did not originally plan to pursue engineering, that knowledge became a powerful tool. Because she understands fibers deeply, she knows how materials stretch, fold, and respond to tension. Therefore, her process begins with fabric manipulation. She experiments with the material first and allows it to guide the final form. This hands-on relationship with fabric helps her create the sculptural shapes that define the collection.
Personal resilience runs through the work as well. Dovile moved from Lithuania to the United States unexpectedly and soon found herself raising a child alone in a new country without a support system. That pressure forced her to adapt quickly. While working multiple jobs, she kept her dream alive until she could fully commit to fashion. “I create beautiful soft things, but inside me resides some sort of grit that doesn’t allow me to quit,” she says. That balance, softness on the outside, strength within, defines Modern Madonnas. The garments appear gentle, yet they carry weight and intention.
The decision to photograph the collection in Iceland reinforces this idea. The landscape, shaped by volcanoes, appears calm and open, yet powerful forces lie beneath the surface. In much the same way, her designs hold inner strength beneath their soft exterior.
Ultimately, Modern Madonnas offers more than clothing. Through sculptural shapes, hidden layers, and thoughtful construction, Dovile invites women to take up space without apology. In doing so, she reminds us that softness can protect, presence can empower, and quiet strength can speak clearly on its own.
Credits:
Designer: Dovile Riebschlager @doviart.fashion
Photography Tink M Lockett @tinklockett ( New Zealand)
Makeup Karla Adrianna Arias @karlaaasworld (USA)
Models Darianny Finoll @finollg_ (Venesuella/Iceland)
Wiktoria @wiktooriaska (Poland/Iceland)
Karla Adrianna Arias @karlaaasworld (USA)
Jennifer Koch @haveastylegasm (USA)
Helga Margaret Olafs @helgamargaretolafs (Iceland)
