Rui Chen’s Dōll Blends Fashion, Identity, and Ritual

Some beauty soothes. Other beauty stirs. Rui Chen’s collection Dōll lingers in the latter, where softness coexists with defiance, and garments don’t just dress the body, but initiate it into something deeper. At once theatrical and tender, Dōll unfolds not as a fashion line but as a ceremony, a meditation

Maison Cosette’s Journey Toward a New Kind of Couture

In the world of Parisian fashion, where heritage often dictates form, Maison Cosette Paris is writing its own story, one that blends memory with rebellion. Founded by Guy Bela alongside Hugo Nanga and Saory Giovanni,, the label reimagines couture as both deeply personal and quietly defiant. The name Cosette, long

HTML 7277’s NYC Exhibition Turns Fashion into a System of Surveillance

When we first featured HTML 7277 in The Vanilla Issue, the duo was preparing for their debut New York exhibition. That show, CTRL <observables>, has since taken place at The Blanc, a curatorial space in Midtown Manhattan known for advancing experimental visual and performance art within a leading commercial gallery

Cris Castrillón doesn’t need Darkness to Shine Bright

Credits for all images in this article: Model: Cris Castrillón (@cris__castrillon) Photography: Jon Kdna (@jon.kdna @fashioncreators__) Styling: Ela Casati (@elacasati) Make Up Artist: Cris Castrillón (@cris__castrillon) All clothing by: Ricardo Castro (@byricardocastro). This was an original photoshoot to accompany the following article. Cris Castrillón has been many things throughout his

Architect of Fabric: John Klif Builds His Fashion World from the Ground Up

John Klif doesn’t just design clothes, he builds them. His debut collection, LEVER DU SOLEIL (French for “sunrise”), is more than a poetic title. It’s a reflection of where he is in his journey: right at the edge of something new, bold, and full of light. Based in Sydney, Klif’s

How Ariel Berka Turns Fashion into a Language of Strength and Vulnerability

When Ariel Berka named her graduation collection First Person Feminine, the phrase came to her instantly. For her, it signaled intimacy and resistance. “It’s about reclaiming narrative: a woman telling her own story in the first person, rather than being spoken for or objectified,” she explains. The designs speak as

Yuchen Yuan Reimagines Menswear Through Villainy, Eroticism, and 1960s Tailoring

Yuchen Yuan’s graduate collection, Night and Day Clothes of Diabolik, presents a stylized exploration of duality, masculinity, and narrative dressing. Developed at the University of Westminster, the six-look collection draws on 1960s tailoring, cult cinema, and personal reflections on the body to experiment with how fashion can express desire, ambiguity,

This Designer Rebuilt the Suit to Show That Masculinity Can Be Soft

For London-based designer Ping Chen, the classic suit is more than a symbol of tradition. It’s a starting point for rethinking masculinity, and rebuilding it with care. His graduate collection, Thing in Itself, grew from a personal question: Can masculinity come from tenderness, not control? Inspired by memories of his

Jewel Kaye transforms personal rebirth into fashion with his brand Wijnruit

Fashion becomes a language of survival for Jewel Kaye, the multidisciplinary creative behind Wijnruit. Through his London-based label, Kaye transforms pain into beauty, merging myth and material in a story of metamorphosis and rebirth. “I was obsessed with danger,” he recalls. “Then the crash came, and my back broke, and