All images on this article were taken as the campaign for IKARUS S/S 27 and appear as a courtesy of Agnoli.
It’s undeniable that artificial intelligence is changing the world we live in at a dizzying speed. Many industries are undergoing a full restructuring process, or being wiped out. In the face of such uncertainty, some creatives have expressed their concerns about what their futures will be like, but Carlos Agnoli, founder and creative director of Agnoli, believes in an entirely different possibility: a horizon where what’s handmade and analog will be more valuable than it ever was before.
Carlos was always passionate about fashion since he can remember. “My mother is a textile designer and I have so many fond memories of us making my Halloween costumes together. It was something I looked forward to every year, our special moment together. I loved dressing up.” Later on he decided to study psychology, but clothing was always on the back of his mind. “My final dissertation was about the social psychology of clothing and fashion. Deciding what to wear everyday is a creative act, and back then I was always trying to find a way to connect my two interests.”
After attending a conference about fashion trends and how they’re driven by psychology, everything clicked for Carlos, and this impulse drove him to study fashion trends forecasting at Polimoda in Firenze, Italy. There, it became more evident that weaving would become the center of his aesthetic universe as a fashion creative, especially after his internship at Brunello Cuccinelli and developing relationships with some of Polimoda’s lecturers. “My mentor when I was a student was Li Edelkoort, and she taught me how to truly feel and understand fashion. Thanks to my psychology studies I already had a strong background and skills as a researcher, and I was able to bring everything together.”
Unlike what many fashion creatives do when they get to study in a major fashion city like Paris or Milano (fight tooth and nail to stay there), Carlos decided to resettle in Colombia where he can develop his vision more freely. “I found this incredible group of weavers, a family business that has worked on this craft for more than 50 years. I connected with them not only as a creative, but on a personal level, because they understand the message I want to convey, the social processes reflected on my pieces, they’re on board with whatever crazy idea I come up with. Of course, they are much more skilled than I am. I don’t think I’d be able to replicate that anywhere else, because it has a lot to do with being from this land and it wouldn’t be the same had I tried to do it with other people.”
This type of uniquely Colombian sensibility is reflected in Agnoli’s S/S 27 collection, IKARUS. As the title suggests, it was inspired by the Greek myth of the young man who dared flying too close to the sun, but also by the unparalleled biodiversity of Colombia, including the number one spot in variety of birds in the world and millions of moths and butterflies. “Everyone knows we have the most bird species in the world, but we are also up there when it comes to insects. During World Moth Week, the Botanical Garden of Medellín hosts an event where you can see millions of moths descending into the garden and it’s a gorgeous sight.”
IKARUS is vulnerable and powerful at the same time. The hues used are minimal: black and white, muted grey and turquoise, and the weaving is so intricate it feels like an ancient work of art. In IKARUS strength and softness are syncronized energies, rather than opposing forces. The final result is a collection of carefully selected pieces where there are no “fillers”. Each garment is fundamental to the whole set and creates an atmosphere that captures the resilience of nature, surviving even when everything seems lost.
These styling decisions came from a deeper conceptualization where the myth of Icarus is a metaphor of death and rebirth. “The narrative of this collection begins after Icarus dies. In Greek mythology, when someone passes away their psyche emerges, and in this case I pictured it as a moth. This moth goes to the underworld and there the gods allow him to come back to life as a bird. The story starts out sad but has a happy ending because he gets to live again. We made sure to convey all of this on the campaign.”
Following Agnoli’s ethos as a 100% hand-made, artisanal brand, the campaign photoshoot for IKARUS was shot on an entirely analog format using 16 mm film cameras. “We had to send the negatives to México because there are no places in Colombia to print this format anymore. The way old-school physical media captures texture, light and distance can’t be done with contemporary digital formats. This was done to reflect Agnoli’s essence and I’d say it’s audiovisual craftsmanship.”
Lastly, Carlos states that handmade artistry is the next big thing, and that Latin America, particularly Colombia, are becoming global references in this field. “As fashion enthusiasts and professionals, I’d say it’s very important that we stay curious. We all love fashion and it’s great when you find new, exciting brands and designers. There’s so much creativity in Colombia, and we are in the midst of a creative revolution coming from the Global South. AI is becoming very dominant in the mainstream, but I believe in the importance of doing things with your hands. I believe the future will be analog.”
IKARUS S/S 27 Campaign credits:
Photography: Faber Franco @faberfranco
Hair and makeup direction: Nicolás Malaver @catijeras
MUA: @makeupr0x
Styling and consulting: Christo Triana @christotriana
Styling assistants Juan Felipe @subito_x Stefanny @soldelluviaa
Models: Isabel Vertel @isabel_vertel Leva @iam.leva Nia Bernal @niabernalf
