All images in this article appear as a courtesy of Alice Yu.
Special thanks to Metis PR and Communication and Junse Liu for their help in the creation of this article.
In a world that seems to be hellbent on dividing and stereotyping women into rigid categories (i.e.: the Madonna-Whore complex), stepping into the spotlight as a fully complex individual who also happens to be a woman can be groundbreaking, even revolutionary. It’s as if navigating the world as a woman who is determined, smart, ambitious, sensitive, soft and sophisticated, all at once, is nearly impossible, and yet it’s women like Alice Yu who make it happen and inspire those around her to reach their full potential in every aspect.
Artisans working on the creation of Alice Yu’s piece in their MIlano workshop.
Hailing from China, and spending her time between her homeland and Milano, Italy, Alice founded her workshop in 2016, and eventually her eponymous brand in 2017. With her sartorial knowledge from her student years at Istituto Maragoni Milano and her interest in embroidery, she has explored in ready to wear and haute couture different ways to channel all these influences to create something original. “Many of the shapes I use, the beadings, are inspired by traditional Chinese styles. We worked with heritage artisans to create something fresh, but I also include draping, French embroidery, everything I learned here. In the end, it’s 100% Alice Yu.”
During the most recent womenswear fashion week in Milano last February, the brand showcased their A/W collection with an exhibition where visitors were able to see the pieces upclose and personal, witness the artisans that collaborate with Alice work, and talk to the designer herself to hear what the collection and brand are all about. Each garment was exquisite, with a preference for sheer fabrics, feathers and floor-lenght dresses and gowns that felt like a dream, both in visual and tactile terms. Embroidered shawls, skirts and dresses were styled with pants and blazers that added a touch of functionality, in the perfect intersection of what we need for our busy daily lives and what we fantasize about putting on for dinners and parties. One of the most outstanding gowns was entirely made out of tiny copper bells, for a grand total of 6000 parts handsewn individually and four months of work to create a piece that, beyond clothing or even couture, is a masterpiece of artisanal prowess.
As someone who isn’t only a creative director, but also runs her own business, Alice is no stranger to juggling different aspects of herself to make everything work out. This multifaceted approach to life is reflected on the way she creates clothes for the leading ladies of today. “I can relate to my clientele. My customers are usually CEOs, media executives, bankers, celebrities, all independent and trailblazers in their fields. I design from the perspective of a woman, for these women. So there are details in the cuts and fabrics that represent what they want, pieces are constructed in a sharp, clean way with strong angles but also soft and feminine. They [the customers] want to feel powerful, but they also have a girly side to them.”
Being a pioneer like many of her clients, Alice advices younger creatives to never compromise when it comes to expressing their individual essence, what makes them unique. “Modern women should always be ready to step into their role and showcase the best part of themselves. Always be true to yourself, no matter what. One of my customers and friends is the CEO of a pharmaceutical company and it really moved me when she congratulated me a few days ago for my presentation in Milano and for having my brand for ten years. She said she saw herself in me, and hopefully in the future younger people will be encouraged to stay fearless and authentic.”
In line with her unshakeable commitment to independence and authenticity, she mentions when talking about directing for a bigger brand: “Of course, I want to run my label for as long as I can, but if I have the opportunity, I would love to be a creative director for Valentino.” Her work has been greatly influenced by him in the softness of the fabrics she uses and the emphasis of the female silhouette in an elegant way, and Valentino red is a common shade in Alice Yu’s collections.
Along with her love of Before Sunset and its dreamy Parisian landscapes, Taiwanese pop legend Li Zhong Shen’s emotional lyrics and a glass of the finest white wine from Bordeaux every now and then, Alice’s profile in the current conversation about global creativity is clearly defined. More than being a fashion designer or a company owner, she connects different cultures and ways of understanding artistry and heritage, interpreting it for the most influential women of today and giving them the perfect mix of empowerment and beauty with each garment she creates.
