John Klif doesn’t just design clothes, he builds them. His debut collection, LEVER DU SOLEIL (French for “sunrise”), is more than a poetic title. It’s a reflection of where he is in his journey: right at the edge of something new, bold, and full of light.
Based in Sydney, Klif’s work blends the raw power of brutalist architecture with the finesse of couture craftsmanship. Think: bold silhouettes, unexpected materials, and intricate construction, all balanced with surprising softness and elegance. “I’ve always been drawn to the geometry and dystopian feel of Brutalist design,” he says. “But I love playing with that severity and softening it through shape and drape.”
Take his striking yellow boat-neck top with gun flaps, sharp and sculptural on its own. Then he pairs it with a gored skirt inspired by Victorian fashion, complete with asymmetrical tucks that fall into gentle drapes. It’s this back-and-forth, hard and soft, structure and movement, that defines LEVER DU SOLEIL.
Every single piece in the collection was handmade using couture techniques. Klif’s commitment to quality runs deep, and it shows not just in how the garments look, but how they feel. “I always start with how the fabric feels in my hands. Natural fibres like wool, cotton, and silk just feel better, and they last,” he explains. Much of the collection uses deadstock fabrics, like a metallic dot georgette from Roberto Cavalli or an Italian cotton sateen printed with zippers, which he layered with real zips for a playful 3D effect.
Klif doesn’t stop at making clothes, he makes the world around them, too. He styled and cast all the models for the final shoot, trusting his gut for who could really bring each look to life. “If I can’t picture someone wearing the piece in my mind, I won’t cast them. It’s that simple,” he says.
That same instinct led him to create his own silver chokers and bracelets from D-rings he found in his garage, and even a striped wool beret sewn by hand. In two looks, face veils made from vegetable netting he spotted while shopping added the perfect final touch. “It just clicked,” he says. “Sometimes the most unexpected things bring the whole look together.”
Klif’s obsession with craft started early. He was just 16 when he was accepted into the Whitehouse Institute of Design, and the experience changed everything. “Before that, I tended to hold back creativity. I’d stick with the first idea that came to me. But studying at Whitehouse, and having mentors who really pushed me, taught me to stay open, experiment, and keep pushing a concept further.”
That mindset paid off. Klif was recently named Breakthrough Emerging Designer at Fleece to Fashion 2024, and landed a top 10 spot in the Vogue Australia x VRC Emerging Designer Awards. Those milestones gave him a new sense of confidence. “I used to nitpick everything. Being the youngest, I always felt like I had to prove myself. But those moments made me pause and actually appreciate what I’d made.”
Now, he’s setting his sights on the next phase: building out a more wearable, commercially-focused line that still holds onto his signature craftsmanship and fabric sensibility. He’s also keen to expand into accessories, original prints, and even cosmetics and footwear. “I want to build a multifaceted luxury brand that stands out for its distinctive identity, exceptional quality, and creative freedom,” he says.
Klif may be at the beginning of his path, but LEVER DU SOLEIL proves he’s already designing like someone who’s been doing this for years. Built from instinct, shaped by architecture, and crafted entirely by hand, it’s a sunrise worth watching.
