For emerging designer Darian Vacariu, fashion is more than clothing. It is a way to express emotions and experiences visually. His collection La Givan, developed during his studies at Istituto Marangoni Milano, explores how people move from guarded distance to genuine connection. Through structured silhouettes, cultural references, and evolving shapes, the collection transforms the idea of conversation into a visual narrative.
The title itself reflects the emotional core of the project. La Givan comes from a regional expression in the dialect of Vacariu’s homeland. It refers to the space in front of a village house where people gather and talk. The word is informal and not widely known. For Vacariu, this made it even more meaningful. It represents everyday moments of connection and shared presence. “Choosing a name based on the dialect of the area from which I grew up was important for me because it carries memory, warmth and feeling,” he explains. The idea of people sitting together and speaking openly became the main concept behind the collection.
Vacariu translates this idea into the structure of the garments. The first looks feature sharp shoulders, strong volumes, and architectural shapes. These elements resemble armor. They represent the protective layers people often wear in social situations. At the beginning of a conversation, people tend to present themselves carefully. Clothing becomes a metaphor for this emotional distance. Vacariu highlights this through structured silhouettes placed around the shoulders and knees. “The appearance of ‘armor’ is how we protect ourselves at first,” he explains.
As the collection progresses, the silhouettes begin to soften. The shapes remain structured, but they gradually open and relax. This shift mirrors the emotional change that happens when conversation deepens. People slowly let go of their defenses. Instead of removing structure completely, Vacariu allows it to evolve. The garments become lighter and more fluid. “The structure does not disappear completely, but evolves,” he says. “Just like in conversation, where we lose ourselves but become more open.”
The collection also draws inspiration from the bold silhouettes of the 1980s. That decade introduced powerful shapes and dramatic tailoring. Vacariu was particularly inspired by women’s fashion from the period. Rather than copying the era directly, he reinterprets those silhouettes within menswear. The result is a mix of strength and elegance. “The female silhouettes from that period had a big impact on my collections,” he says. “The combination of feminine silhouettes in men’s outfits adds a twist and a special personality.” This contrast adds complexity to the collection and strengthens its narrative about identity and expression.
Vacariu’s Romanian heritage also shapes the emotional layer of the project. Cultural traditions of gathering, storytelling, and long conversations influence the concept behind La Givan. These values are deeply rooted in his background. The collection reflects this sense of community and connection. At the same time, visual references to Romanian clothing traditions appear subtly in the designs. Vacariu avoids direct reproduction of traditional garments. Instead, he integrates elements of heritage into a contemporary fashion language. This approach allows past and present to coexist naturally within the collection.
Although Vacariu created the collection himself, collaboration played an important role in the final presentation. A creative team helped bring the vision to life during the photoshoot. Photographer Haining Zhu, assistant Natalia Calvo Zabala, and makeup artist Feisaun Choy contributed to the visual narrative. The models also helped translate the garments into movement and presence. Through discussion and feedback, the team refined the overall direction of the shoot. The result reflects a shared creative process.
Interestingly, the final photoshoot location was different from the original idea. The concept initially imagined people sitting together outside a village house. Instead, the team chose a different environment. This decision allowed viewers to interpret the collection more freely. The garments speak for themselves without a fixed narrative setting.
Living and studying in Milano has also influenced Vacariu’s development as a designer. The city exposed him to new perspectives and creative possibilities. Coming from a country where he felt fashion was less developed, the experience helped him grow professionally and personally. It also helped him define his own style and voice.
Completing La Givan became an important milestone in that journey. The process taught Vacariu to trust his ideas and follow his vision. As he continues his studies and works toward becoming a creative director, the collection stands as an early statement of his approach to fashion. By combining cultural memory, strong structure, and emotional storytelling, La Givan shows how clothing can express more than aesthetics. It can also reflect the complex process of human connection.
