Emerging Sydney-based fashion designer Phillipa Signorelli is quietly establishing herself in the Australian fashion scene with a thoughtful approach to design that merges imaginative concepts with innovative technologies. Her latest collection, PERCEPTION, presented as part of her Honours graduation from the University of Technology Sydney (UTS), explores an evocative blend of dream-like states and digital aesthetics. At its heart is an artistic exploration inspired by the immersive, experiential installations of renowned light artist James Turrell.
Signorelli’s journey began with a curiosity about the intangible yet universally relatable experience of dreaming. “The idea for PERCEPTION started with a fascination with the dream realm and the subconscious mind, as they are universal yet intensely personal experiences,” she explains. Driven by an awareness of how our digital lives have reshaped perceptions of identity and reality, Signorelli developed a nuanced visual narrative that subtly blurs boundaries between the digital and physical worlds.
Throughout the creative process, Signorelli drew inspiration from artists who actively shape environments through manipulation of colour and light. Specifically, the works of James Turrell provided her with a foundational reference. Turrell’s acclaimed installation Dhatu profoundly influenced her conceptual approach, guiding her to explore how garments might similarly evoke a sensory experience. As she describes, “His ability to manipulate perception through illumination inspired me to view garments not just as physical objects, but as immersive experiences.”
Turrell’s use of light as a material rather than merely as illumination is echoed in Signorelli’s considered application of colour gradients, textiles, and silhouettes. By carefully layering materials and digitally printed gradients, Signorelli replicates how colour and light interact naturally, creating garments that subtly shift and change visually as they move. The collection aims to embody an experience similar to how light behaves in digital environments, fluid, transient, and immersive.
Integral to achieving this aesthetic was Signorelli’s experimentation with advanced textile and garment construction techniques, enabling her to translate conceptual ideas into tangible garments. With sponsorship support through UTS, she gained access to the Shima Seiki WholeGarment 3D knitting machine, a resource that significantly influenced her design process.
Utilising the Shima Seiki technology allowed Signorelli to precisely engineer textiles without traditional seams, reducing material waste and enhancing garment comfort. Her standout piece, the Parallel Dimension Knit Dress, epitomises this careful integration of digital craftsmanship and tactile form. “Working with advanced knitting technology made me rethink garment construction entirely, pushing me creatively and encouraging new experimentation,” she reflects. The result is a knit dress featuring delicate textures and a soft, pastel colour palette that visually resonates with the ethereal, digital aesthetic of the collection.
Another highlight is her meticulously crafted Skylight Mini Dress, consisting of over 1000 individually laser-cut circles. Each circle, digitally printed with gradient tones of blue, was thoughtfully arranged and layered by hand to form a sculptural yet fluid silhouette. This dress illustrates how Signorelli merges couture craftsmanship with contemporary technology, producing a design that subtly interacts with the wearer’s movements to evoke a dreamlike visual effect.
Machine pleating was another significant technique Signorelli embraced, evident in pieces like the Aura and Horizon Mini Dresses. The controlled pleating adds rhythmic structure to the garments, enhancing the interplay between print and silhouette. This method, combined with layered sheer materials, contributes to a delicate balance between structure and fluidity, capturing the essence of digital escapism.
In terms of prints, Signorelli developed her own digital dreamscapes inspired by imagined virtual worlds and the changing effects of light. The prints are subtle yet impactful, reflecting the blurred distinctions between physical reality and digital spaces. Each garment invites observers to view it not merely as clothing, but as a gentle invitation into a curated digital daydream.
Reflecting on the culmination of the collection, Signorelli identifies the photoshoot as the pivotal moment when her creative vision fully materialised. “Seeing every garment completed, styled, and brought to life on set was when everything fell into place,” she recalls. The shoot validated the subtle power of her design ethos, affirming how effectively garments can embody conceptual narratives without overwhelming the wearer.
Looking ahead, Signorelli aims to continue exploring these intersections between fashion, technology, and emotional resonance. She is committed to a thoughtful evolution of her design practice, seeing technology not as a gimmick but as a meaningful extension of her creative expression. As she expands her design repertoire, she intends to keep experimenting with new materials, techniques, and conceptual frameworks.
Through PERCEPTION, Phillipa Signorelli has offered an understated yet evocative collection, capturing the imagination of fashion enthusiasts, designers, and stylists alike. Her nuanced interpretation of dream states and digital realities presents a considered reflection on how fashion might gently redefine boundaries in the digital age. Signorelli’s approach is grounded in craftsmanship and authenticity, positioning her as a young designer thoughtfully shaping the future of fashion, a future that subtly invites contemplation as much as admiration.
